Wednesday, May 29, 2013

Sacramento has a Mediterranean climate (Köppen Csa), characterized by damp to wet, mild winters and hot, dry summers. On average, there are 73 days where the high exceeds 90 °F (32 °C), and 14 days where the high exceeds 100 °F (38 °C); On the other extreme, there are 15 days where the temperature fails to reach 50 °F (10 °C), and 15 freezing nights per year.

It is those 15 freezing nights a week we need to make sure the pipes which reach the outside cold in our home are protected. Protecting your pipes from freezing temperatures will save you hundreds or even thousands of dollars in plumbing repair cost and damages.

According to Sate Farm Insurance, about 250,000 homes sustain water damage annually from frozen pipes. In fact, “damage” is too weak a word to describe the disastrous effect a water pipe can have when it gushes open inside your home.

When we talk about pipes and water, we first need to understand that freezing pipes in Sacramento.

What Causes Frozen Pipes?

The water inside pipes can freeze when outdoor temperatures drop below freezing. As freezing water expands, it causes the pressure inside the pipes to increase, possibly leading to bursting pipes. Pipes can freeze in a few hours and usually burst when temperatures are the lowest, in the middle of the night.

In the Sacramento area pipes will freeze when the temperatures are below 33°F. The high elevation areas in Sacramento tend to freeze first.

Sacramento plumbers focus on stopping the leak then repairing it. Any water damage to your home will need to be handled by a contractor and not a plumber.

My pipes are Frozen in Sacramento but have not burst

If you open the faucet on the sink and nothing comes out, it probably means your pipes are full of ice. Chances are they’re not frozen in the room where the heat is, but somewhere upstream (in the garage, wall cavity or crawl space.) If you have access to them, try blowing hot air from a hair dryer or heat gun to melt the blockage and get you out of a jam. You might also heat the space with a heat lamp or space heater.

Be careful, use heat creating devices properly to avoid house fires when trying to fix frozen pipes.

You can also heat up water on the stove, soak rags or cloths in there, then wrap the pipe. This works at thawing pipes, but takes take a long time.

Preventing Frozen Pipes in Sacramento

Insulate pipes, especially those close to outside walls, attics or crawl spaces where the chance of freezing is greatest
Seal air leaks surrounding or near pipes
Keep garage doors closed if there are water supply lines in the garage
Disconnect all outdoor hoses and turn off water to exterior faucets and sprinkler systems
Open kitchen and bathroom cabinet doors to allow warmer air to circulate around the plumbing
Keep heat at 55 degrees F. or higher even when you are out of town
During a cold spell turn on both hot and cold faucets near outside walls to allow a small trickle of water to run during the night
If you need to be away from home, leave the heat on and drain your water system before you go
Identify the locations of shutoff valves so that you are prepared to stop the flow of water as soon as possible when a pipe bursts

What to Do When Pipes Freeze or Burst

If pipes freeze:

Open all faucets
Remove insulation and wrap pipes in rags
If all else fails, call your plumber

If pipes burst:

Shut off the water immediately to prevent additional damage
Take proper precautions to avoid an electrical shock from being in or near standing water
Take an inventory of any damaged property or possessions
Contact your local claims office to help you locate a vendor specializing in emergency water mitigation services that can properly dry out the damaged area
If your pipes have already frozen but haven’t burst, take immediate action. What to do depends on where the pipe freezes, but generally speaking, if you can heat the pipes back up, you can avert disaster.

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Sacramento Frozen Pipes

Monday, January 14, 2013

Plumbers Terms

Glossary of Terms & Definitions

This Plumbers reference guide is for the Do It Yourself plumber. I have more articles on DIY plumbers on the site and at AO Smith Repair.

ABS (Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene)
Rigid black plastic pipe used only for drain lines.

Access Panel
An opening in the wall or ceiling near the fixture that allows access for servicing the plumbing/electrical system.

Adaptor
A fitting that unites different types of pipe together, e.g. ABS to cast ironpipe.

Cleanout
A plug in a trap or drain pipe that provides access for the purpose of clearing an obstruction.

Closet Auger
A flexible rod with a curved end used to access the toilet’s built-in trap and remove clogs.

Closet Bend
A curved fitting that connects the closet flange to the toilet drain.

Closet Flange
An anchoring ring secured to the floor. The base of the toilet is secured to this ring with bolts.

Coupling
A fitting that joins two pieces of pipe.

CPVC (Chlorinated Polyvinyl Chloride)
Rigid plastic pipe used in water supply systems, where code permits.

DWV
Abbreviation for drain, waste and vent.

Elbow
A pipe fitting with two openings that changes the direction of the line. Also called an ell. It comes in a variety of angles, from 22 1/2° to 90°.

Fall/Flow
The proper slope or pitch of a pipe for adequate drainage.

Fixture
In plumbing, the devices that provide a supply of water and/or its disposal, e.g. sinks, tubs, toilets.

Flux
The paste that is used in soldering metal joints. Flux aids the process by preventing oxidation of the joint.

I.D.
Abbreviation for inside diameter. All pipes are sized according to their inside diameter.

O.D.
Abbreviation for outside diameter.

PB (Polybutylene)
Flexible plastic tubing used in water supply systems where allowed by code.

Plumber’s Putty
A pliable, popular putty used to seal joints between drain pieces and fixture surfaces.

PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride)
A rigid white or cream colored plastic pipe used in non pressure systems, such as waste and vent systems.

Reducer
A fitting that connects pipes of different sizes.

Riser
A vertical assembly of fittings and pipes that distributes water upward.

Rough-In
The portion of a plumbing installation that includes running the water supply lines and drain, waste & vent lines to the proposed location of each fixture.

Run
A complete or secondary section(s) of pipe that extend from supply to fixture or drain to stack.

Sanitary Fitting
Fitting that joins the assorted pipes in a drain, waste and vent system; designed to allow solid material to pass through without clogging.

Soil Stack
Largest vertical drain line to which all branch waste lines connect; carries waste to the sewer line.

Solder
A metal alloy that is melted to join or mend metal surfaces; also, the act of melting solder into the joint.

Stop Valve
A valve that controls the flow of water to an individual fixture, allowing water supply to be stopped to one fixture without affecting the water supply to other fixtures.

Tee
A T-shaped fitting with three openings used to create branch lines.

Trap
Curved section of a fixture drain line, designed to hold water thus preventing sewer gases from entering the house.

Union
Three-piece fitting that joins two sections of pipe, but allows them to be disconnected without cutting the pipe. Used primarily with steel pipes, but never in a DWV system.

Vent Stack
The upper portion of the soil stack above the topmost fixture through which gases and odors escape.

WYE
A Y-shaped fitting with three openings used to create branch lines.

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Plumbers Terms

Drain Waste Vent Plumbers Help

The drain-waste-vent system transports all the used water and waste from the house to the septic or sewer system. It’s a network of drain pipes that runs to all the sinks, toilets, baths, showers, and washer. These pipes drain the waste from the house.

Older homes use cast iron pipes. However, most newer waste systems use rigid plastic PVC (polyvinyl chloride) or ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) pipe that are sealed with glue. It wasn’t until the late 1960′s or early 1970′s that plastic PVC sewer pipe was introduced. Once introduced the PVC pipe quickly became the choice for sewage pipe on new home construction. PVC provided much easier installations, cheaper materials, and easier production. Cast iron waste water piping was still being installed during the early PVC years and can be found in early 1970′s homes. Cast iron waste piping is still used in many commercial, industrial and municipal applications, and even in some residential structures.

If your home has cast iron pipe sealed with lead solder, it can be very hard to work on your Waste systems. Cast iron pipes have been manufactured and used in the United States since the early 1800′s. The first usage was for water distribution but eventually also expanded to waste water disposal (soil pipes also called sewage pipes). By the 1890′s an actual cast iron soil pipe industry took shape and was recognized. Cast iron waste water piping was not the only product used over the years but it did provide a highly reliable and durable pipe that lasted much longer periods than other materials.

A good quality cast iron pipe, installed under ideal conditions, has a life expectancy of 75 – 100 years, and possibly even more. Cast iron does rust but when it does the rust actually forms a barrier layer over the remainder of the pipe which helps protect it from further rusting. Since most cast iron pipes were thick walled to begin with even with some rusting inside they can handle the lower pressures of waste water disposal quite well and last a long time. Cast iron also provides many other benefits in home waste systems that still makes it a good choice for homes. However it is more expensive to purchase and install. Also many plumbers of residential structures do not have the experience it takes to properly install and maintain it. As a result PVC has taken over for the majority of home installations today.

Cast Iron pipes used to carry waste are more susceptible to rust and leaks than cast iron pipes used to carry water. If you see rust on the outside of your pipes – unless there is deep pitting – there isn’t usually a reason to worry. Underground waste lines very rarely fail because of external rust, usually the problem is out of sight, on the inside of the pipe.

The contents of waste lines can create hydrogen sulfide gases. When these gases oxidize, they produce sulfuric acid and the acid will corrode cast iron pipes.

You can expect to see two different kinds of cast iron pipe failure:

Problems at the Pipe Seams – Seams are created when pipes are formed during the casting process. In this case, the hydrogen sulfide gas has collected in the pipe and attacked a weakened seam.

Pinhole Cracks – These cracks are very small and will not be visible during an inspection. What you will see are blobs of rust under the horizontal sections of the pipe. These blobs can be very tiny or up to the size of walnuts. These rust blobs are often overlooked because there are no obvious leaks. As the leaks form, rust will expand over the pinholes and seal off the water.

When cast iron pipes are formed, they are “pit-casted”; this means the internal pipe walls are not all the same thickness. The thinner portions of the pipe wall will show the cracks and pinholes first, so be on the lookout for patches of rust in different areas of the pipes.

However, today’s homes may utilize cast iron pipe sealed with neoprene in some places as a way to avoid the noise plastic creates when water is draining through it.

The soil stack is the main component of the waste drain. It’s a vertical “stack” of pipes that starts in the basement/crawlspace floor or wall where it’s connected to the outbound sewer or septic line.

The top end of the stack acts as a vent. It extends vertically out through the roof, allowing gases to escape outside and also helps promote drain flow by drawing air inward.

A plugged vent can trap dangerous gases and inhibits drainage; similar to plugging a drinking straw with your thumb to hold liquid.

Make sure the vent doesn’t terminate in the attic. Trapped sewer gases can be dangerous, stink and cause serious structural problems. And a system without a vent may actually suck water out a sink’s trap, or do the reverse and fill the sink with water when another fixture drains.

A trap blocks sewer/septic gases. Without one, sewer gases can flow up the stack, drain pipes and come out wherever there’s a drain. A trap looks like an “U” and is installed below the drain.

When water drains, the trap’s shape causes a small amount of water to remain in the bend. That water blocks any gases from moving up the pipe and entering the room.

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Drain Waste Vent Plumbers Help

Sunday, January 13, 2013

How to Clear a Clogged Drain?

Clogged drains are usually easy enough to correct on your own. An average homeowner should be able to clear most clogs in two hours or less, depending on the severity of the clog.

This article explains a number of simple ways to unclog drains and how to avoid clogged drains in the future.

First Step: Cleaning Strainers and Stoppers

Many clogs collect around the strainer or stopper in the sink or bathtub. If your lucky, all you may need to do is remove the strainer and clean it. Here are a few tips:

This is a shower strainer in the picture. If there is a strainer over the clogged drain, you should remove any screws holding the strainer in place and then pry the trainer up with the tip of a standard screwdriver. When the strainer is loose, remove and wash away anything that has collected around the strainer. Clean around the top of the drain.

Stoppers need to be cleaned on a regular basis since hair tends to twist around their base. First remove the sink stopper. Some stoppers are removed by turning them with your fingers. Others require that you unscrew a pivot rod that is connected to the opener. This rod should be located under the base of the sink. If you need to use pliers to remove the stopper, make sure to pad them so you won’t chip the chrome finish. Once the stopper is removed, clean it and wipe out the base of the drain opening.

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How to Clear a Clogged Drain?

What are the different types of PEX pipe?

Types of PEX.

All PEX pipe is divided into 3 main types:

A, B and C

The types of PEX pipe A, B, or C type are not separated by grade. The letters identify the manufacturing process and have nothing to do with quality of performance ratings.

Surprising PEX facts:

1. PEX-B can withhold higher pressure than PEX-A.

2. PEX-B performs 30-40% better in chlorine testing than PEX-A and PEX-C.

3. All types of PEX have to comply with ASTM F876 and ASTM F877 standards.

PEX-A tubing is produced using Peroxide method.

PEX-B is made using a “Silane” or “Moisture Cure” method of cross-linking, where links between the molecules of the HDPE form after the extrusion process using a catalyst and exposing PEX tubing to water.

PEX-B is the most common and is manufactured by a large number of companies, such as: Viega, Watts, Bow, Everhot, Zurn and many others.

PEX-C is manufactured using “Electronic Irradiation” method of cross-linking, also known as “Cold” cross-linking. Here, cross-linking of the molecules is done after the process of extrusion by exposing the pipe to an electron radiation beam.

Some PEX-B manufacturers are: Nibco, Roth, Cash-Acme.

Which PEX tubing to choose?

That depends on many factors, such as your budget, skill level and whether you have already bought any tools or materials.

PEX-A is the most expensive of all 3 types and each manufacturer typically requires using their own proprietary connection system. Because of that, tools and PEX fittings can also be very costly.

Other than slightly greater flexibility than of the other (2) types, there are no significant advantages of this type over the other two. If fact, it has been reported by many contractors that the expansion connection system used with PEX-a may be very inconvenient to use in colder climates.

PEX-B is the most typical and the most affordable type of PEX tubing in the US. You will find it being sold by local plumbing and heating retailers, as well as the big box stores such as Home Depot or Lowes. Due to an extensive performance history and compatibility with a large number of connection systems, PEX-B is very popular both among DIY’s and professional contractors.

PEX-C is the latest addition to PEX line and price-wise is similar to PEX-B tubing. Unfortunately, the cross-linking process for this type creates the least amount of bonds (vs. the other types), which makes it closer to a regular PE (PolyEthylene, or, simply plastic) pipe rather than true PEX tubing. Similar to PEX-B, this type can be used with a large variety of installation methods.

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What are the different types of PEX pipe?

Which is betterâ€”PEX or copper?

PEX (cross-linked polyethylene) has several advantages over copper:

PEX is cheaper than copper which is why you may like PEX better. Half-inch PEX tubing costs about a third the price of copper and maybe easier to work on. Some of the savings will be offset by the need for a special tool to install the fitting
ngs, but if you’re doing a medium to large plumbing job, you’ll usually save by using PEX instead of copper.
PEX is faster to install than copper. If you use a manifold and “home-run” system (shown below), it’s like running a garden hose to each fixture—super fast and easy. But even if you install PEX in a conventional main line and branch system, the connections are quicker to make than soldering copper.
PEX won’t corrode like copper but may eventually dry and crack. If you live in an area with acidic water, copper can corrode over time. PEX is unaffected by acidic water and is therefore a better choice in these areas.
One major advantage that PEX pipes have over their metal counterparts is its flexibility, which makes PEX tubing installation considerably easier. PEX piping and fittings are easier to put together as there are no bends required when turning corners.

Do I need special tools to install PEX plumbing pipe?

cinch conections sacramento plumbing Do it yourself

No. You can use stab-in or compression fittings to make the connections. But they’re too expensive to be practical on large projects. For most jobs, you’ll want to invest in a special tool to make connections for PEX plumbing jobs. Repipe jobs may need other tools to run lines through existing walls.

There are several PEX connection methods, but only two that are affordable enough to be practical for DIYers: crimp rings and cinch clamps, as shown above.

Crimp rings are a band of metal, usually copper, that you slip over the fitting and compress with a crimp ring tool. The main drawback to the crimp ring method is that you’ll need either separate crimping tools for 1/2-in. and 3/4-in. fittings, or a universal tool with a swappable insert (not shown). This adds a little up-front cost to this method. A combo kit with interchangeable crimp jaws starts at about $100.

Cinch clamps work more like the traditional band clamps. You slip the cinch clamp tool (shown) over the protruding tab and squeeze to tighten the cinch clamp.

The same tool works for all sizes of cinch clamps. Cinch clamp tools start at about $40.

pex xinch tool plumbing repipe We like the one-handed version shown in the photo because you can hold the ring in place with one hand while tightening it with the other.

The only other special tool you need is a scissors-like cutter for the tubing.

Types of PEX pipes?

Depending on your area of application, there are basically 3 types of PEX pipes to choose from. There are 3 types of PEX pipes. They include PEX-A, PEX-B, and PEX-C . Although all the PEX pipes are made through different processes, the structure of their composition is similar.

Can PEX be used under the slab?

Yes. The flexibility of PEX allows it to be supplied in coils meaning installations under the slab can be made in a single, continuous length without the need for fittings. PEX is not affected by concrete, (it is commonly encased in concrete for radiant floor heating). PEX , however, must be sleeved when penetrating a slab.

What is recommened uses for PEX?

PEX’s flexibility and strength at temperatures ranging from below freezing up to 200 degrees Fahrenheit makes it an ideal piping material for hot and cold water plumbing, service lines, hedronic radiant heating systems, snow melting applications, ice rinks and refrigeration warehouses.

How can i be sure that PEX is a safe product for plumbing?

PEX is manufactured and tested for the following standards: astm f 876, f 877, awwa c904 aand csa b 137.5.

Both the product manufacturer and independent third party testing agencies conduct routine quality control and quality assurance evaluations to insure the product meets astm, andi/nsf international and csa standards.

Compliance with the standards ensures the end user of safety and quality. Additionally PEX is included in all of the major model plumbing codes used in the united states and Canada npc, upc, ipc and nspc, and approved by HUD for hot and cold potable water plumbing use.

Is the thermal expansion/contraction of PEX a problem?

No. While PEX expands more than other plumbing materials, directional changes made with the tubing and some slack in the tubing during installation accommodate the expansion and contraction of the system if properly installed.

Conclusion:

PEX is easier for someone to work on. The complex nature of making pipe cuts and handling copper is much more than a normal DIY person can handle. PEX is easy to fix and maintain. We suggest all repipes be done in PEX for most normal homes.

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Which is better—PEX or copper?

Saturday, January 12, 2013

REPAIRING A LEAKY WASHER-TYPE FAUCET

Click on drawing above to view animation.

Washer-type faucets work with a rubber or composition washer that closes onto a metal washer seat (Fig. 1). The washer can become hardened, worn or the seat wears, causing the faucet to leak. You can close the faucet tighter to stop the leaking temporarily, but this increases the internal damage to the faucet.

To repair the leak, first turn off the water. If there’s a shutoff valve beneath the fixture, turn off the water at that point. Otherwise, turn it off at the main house shutoff valve in the basement, utility room, or crawlspace. Turn off the hot water supply at the water heater.

Take the faucet apart by removing the handle (this may not be necessary on some older faucets). Loosen the Phillips-head screw, which usually is beneath a decorative cap in the center of the handle. The cap either unscrews or snaps off when you pry it with a knife blade. If you must use pliers on decorative faucet parts, pad them with electrical tape or cloth to protect the finish. And take special care with the plastic parts found on many modern faucets. Next, lift or pry the handle off its broached stem. Unscrew the packing nut beneath the handle, exposing the rest of the stem. Remove the stem by rotating it in the “on” direction. It will thread out. Reinstall the handle if you have difficulty turning it (Fig. 1). Clean chips from the faucet cavity, but do not use harsh abrasives or a file.

Examine the stem. If the threads are badly corroded or worn, take it to your retailer and get a new stem to match. Clean the stem if it’s dirty.

Now look at the washer, which is located on the lower end of the stem and held in place by a brass screw. If the washer is squeezed flat or has a groove worn in it, replace it–this should stop any dripping. Take the washer with you to your dealer to ensure an exact match in size and style. If the brass screw is damaged, too, replace it with a new brass screw.

The washer seat is located inside the faucet body. You probably can’t determine if the washer seat is causing the leak just by looking at it. Any faucet that needs frequent washer replacement obviously has a damaged seat. The seat should either be refaced with a seat-dressing tool. A seat-dressing tool is not costly. Every home with washer-type faucets needs one. Use the tool according to the manufacturer’s directions, placing it in the faucet along with the packing nut. Then rotate (Fig. 2) until the seat is smooth, and blow out the chips.

Some washer seats can be unthreaded and replaced. Check the faucet body with a flashlight to see if it has a square or hexagonal hole through its center or is slotted for a screwdriver; if so, it is replaceable. However, if the seat simply has a round hole through its center and no slots, it is not replaceable. In this case, dress it with a seat-dressing tool.

To replace it, you’ll need a faucet seat wrench, which comes with a combination of square and hex heads to fit most faucet seats. Turn the washer seat counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten (Fig. 3). Add a little silicone rubber sealant (RTV) or pipe joint compound around the threads of the seat before you install it to make it easier to remove during future repairs.

It’s important to install the correct type of faucet washer (Fig. 1, bottom). A swiveling washer (C) is preferable to either (A) or (B). To install washer style (C), file the shoulder off the end of the stem, drill out the threads of the screw hole. Instead of rubbing against the seat as it closes, a swiveling washer closes with a straight-down, frictionless action – this allows it to outlast fixed washers.

Following this seat and washer service, your faucet should be like new. Put the parts back together in the reverse order of taking them apart. Spread a bit of petroleum jelly or silicone grease on the threads of the stem to lubricate the faucet’s action.

If the faucet leaks around the stem rather than from the spigot, install new packing. You may want to install one of the newer nylon-covered or graphite-impregnated packings–their lubrication allows the faucet handle to turn more freely. Wrap one turn of this packing around the stem just beneath the packing nut (Fig. 1). Use three complete wraps if you’re applying string-type packing. Some stems use O-rings, rather than packing. For these stems, replace the O-ring with a matching one to stop a leak. Hand tighten the packing nut, then tighten it another half-turn.

REPAIRING A NOISY FAUCET

A noisy washer-type faucet is usually caused by a loose seat washer. To stop the noise, first turn off the water and take the faucet apart as described previously. If the washer is loose, tighten it or replace it.

After threading the stem back into the faucet body, try moving it up and down. If it moves, the stem is worn and the entire faucet must be replaced.

Some faucets are noisy due to poor design and construction. The only way to solve this problem is to replace the faucet with a quality one.

REPAIRING WASHER-TYPE BATH AND SHOWER FAUCETS

To take apart a bath/shower faucet for repair, first turn off the water. Then take the faucet apart by removing its handle, escutcheon and packing nut. The packing nut may be buried deeply in the wall, requiring a socket wrench for removal.

Your bath and shower faucets may have a renewable seat that can be smoothed with a seat-dressing tool or removed and replaced using a seat wrench. For replacing and repacking the washer, follow the same instructions provided for a washer-type faucet. Some faucets may need a complete replacement of the combination stem/seat unit.

WASHERLESS FAUCETS

A leak in a washerless faucet usually indicates that the working parts need replacing. Often, prepackaged repair kits are available. Kits may contain all the necessary parts, or may include only the specific parts that need replacing. Follow the instructions for installing the replacement parts. Washerless faucets on tubs and showers are repaired in the same way as those on sink and washbasins.

DIAPHRAGM-TYPE FAUCETS

The diaphragm faucet is washerless but is similar to washer-type faucets. A rubber diaphragm between the stem and seat creates a straight-down, frictionless close. As with washer-type faucets, diaphragm faucets have two handles.

Remove the stem by following the steps outlined for washer-type faucets. Instead of a washer on the end of the stem, you’ll find a swiveling disc. If the rubber diaphragm doesn’t come out with the stem, it is still inside the faucet.

If the diaphragm didn’t come out with the stem, use pliers to peel it from inside the faucet and pull it out. Install a new diaphragm around the swiveling disc, then replace the stem in the faucet.

If the faucet is leaking around the stem, replace the stem’s O-ring before reinstalling the stem.

DISC-TYPE FAUCETS

Click on drawing above to view animation.

Disc faucets may have one or two handles. The water is controlled by openings in the two discs. When the discs are rotated to align, the water flows; when the discs are misaligned, the water shuts off. If the discs wear, the worn discs cause the faucet to leak. Simply turning the handles harder will not stop the leak.

To repair a leak in a two-handle disc faucet, turn off the water and remove the handle on the side that’s leaking.

Use pliers to pull the disc assembly out of the faucet.

Beneath the disc unit is the seat assembly, or seal. Replacing this special O-ring may stop the leak.

You may need to install a whole new disc assembly for faucets that have been used over a long period of time. In this case, all moving parts of the faucet will have been replaced and should last as long as the original discs did. The parts of some disc units snap apart into a separate bonnet assembly and bottom cap.

To repair a leaking single-handle disc, turn off both the hot and cold water and remove the handle to expose the disc assembly. Take out the screws to lift the assembly out of the faucet.

You’ll notice that beneath the disc unit are three O-ring seals. Though unlikely, water could be leaking between the unit and one of these seals. In this case, you may be able to stop the leak by cleaning the disc assembly and faucet body and installing a new set of seals. If that doesn’t work, the entire disc unit must be replaced. This will renew all moving parts.

Replacing the unit is fairly simple. Place the three O-rings into their recesses in the bottom of the disc unit. Then install the unit and tighten the screws. Finally, replace the handle–and you’re done!

BALL-TYPE SINGLE-LEVER FAUCETS

Click on drawing above to view animation.

The single-handle faucet with a ball inside to control both hot and cold water may either leak at the spigot or at the handle. A handle leak is usually caused by improper adjusting-ring tension. Simply adjust the tension to stop the leak. Leaks at the handle can also result from a worn cam gasket. Dripping from the spigot is usually caused by worn spring-loaded, soft rubber seat assemblies.

Parts for ball-type faucets are available in kits. Get the spring/seats kit for spigot leaks, or the complete kit for handle leaks. It may be advisable to use the complete kit to replace all working parts of the faucet at the same time. In any case, you’ll need a kit containing the spanner/hex wrench for removing the handle (hex end) and turning the adjusting ring (spanner end).

Without turning the water off, loosen the handle set screw. Slide the handle from its stem.

For a handle leak, try using the spanner wrench to tighten the adjusting collar. Tighten it by turning the wrench and collar clockwise until the faucet doesn’t leak when it is turned on and off. If the adjustment is too loose, the faucet will leak. If you turn it too tight, the handle will be hard to move. When the adjusting ring cannot be turned with the wrench, it is corroded. At this point, you will need to remove the cap to free the adjusting ring. (See next step.) You must turn the water off before removing the cap! Apply penetrating oil to the threads, remove the ring and clean all parts before reassembling.

Install the seats. For faucet leaks at the spigot, you must install new rubber seats and springs. You must turn off the water to make this repair. Unscrew the chrome cap by turning it counterclockwise. If it won’t turn easily, wrap electrical tape around the cap and turn it with pliers. The adjusting ring, which is threaded into the cap’s center, will come off with it. For a seats/springs replacement, pull the ball up and out by its stem. The gasketed cam will come with it. Now you can locate the two rubber seats and springs inside the faucet body. Remove them with pliers or yours fingers and install the new ones. The springs go into the holes first, and the cupped sides of the seats fit over the springs.

Service the ball. If the ball is dirty or coated with scale, clean it or replace it with a new one. Both plastic and brass balls are available, but use a plastic one if your home has hard water.

Reassembly. Put the ball and cam back into the faucet with the slot in the side if the ball fitting over the pin in the faucet body. Then make sure the tab on the cam slips down into the notch in the body. Not aligning the tab and notch is the number one cause for a faucet leaking after it is repaired. Finally, screw on the cap and adjust the ring as described in Step 2. If a properly adjusted ball-type faucet leaks at the cap, the cam and gasket must be replaced.

Swing spouts. If a single-lever ball faucet leaks at the base, you should replace the O-rings. Remove the spout-retaining parts, as well as the spout. Wrap the spout-retaining nut with electrical tape to protect it, and remove the nut with a wrench or pliers by turning counterclockwise. Remove the spout by pulling it up and side-to-side. One or more O-rings should now be exposed. Take the O-rings to your hardware or home center store to get matching O-rings for replacement. Clean any scale that appears on the spout base, faucet body, and the inside of the swinging spout. Install the new O-rings and reverse the steps above to reassemble the faucet.

CARTRIDGE FAUCETS

Cartridge faucets have only one moving part. The stem slides up and down to open and close the faucet and rotates to regulate the flow of hot and cold water. Any leaking requires replacement of the cartridge.

First, turn off the water. To remove the cartridge, you’ll need to remove the handle. This project can be like working a puzzle. If you have the manufacturer’s instruction sheet for the faucet, you’re ahead of the game. Without it, look for a retainer clip at the rear of the faucet just below the handle. Or, you may have to remove a set screw or snap-in “hot-cold” button and a handle pin or screw. On some faucets the swing spout must come off first. The retainer clip may be hiding beneath the handle inside a lift-out tube. Some cartridge faucets use two retainer clips–one by the handle and another by the cartridge. Retainer clips can be pried out with a screwdriver.

Once the retainer clip is removed, the cartridge simply pulls out. Use pliers, as shown. Install the new cartridge by pushing it into place with the flat arrow, or other mark upward. If you use a lubricant on the cartridge, make sure it’s silicone grease.

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